Beyond the Beach, A Different Kind of Caribbean in Jarabacoa

My lips curled into a wide, sleepy smile as my foot met warmer-than-expected water. Before me, a private cobalt basin rested among pink plumerias and bougainvilleas. Coffee in hand, I stood in La Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera, or the City of Eternal Spring, in Jarabacoa, the Dominican Republic’s eco-retreat capital. Lush, green hills surrounded me, a region known for its waterfalls, cold rivers, and cool air.

Behind me stood a contemporary cabin with floor-to-ceiling windows, dramatic wood, and matte black panels. I woke to panoramic views of towering pine trees on all sides after a deeply restorative night’s sleep. As soon as I’d arrived the night before, marveling about the fairy tale forest ‘vibes’ with my sister in the dark as we carefully climbed down to our cabins in the dark -  the space invited me to play. To my surprise, there was a bathroom hidden behind a giant bookcase filled with books in all languages about all things - the kind that made you wish you were staying a longer while. It was a small moment, but after the longer journey it set the tone, dropping me instantly into childlike wonder.

My heart was full of joy. I was at The Grand Forest Jarabacoa, a 12-unit property complete with unique accommodations, each one offering its own interpretation of retreating into nature. A warm invitation to reset. The treetop hotel is intentionally low-impact, shaped by the land itself, with certain structures built entirely by hand and without heavy machinery. Raw finishes, stucco walls, roble oak, and exposed wood make the cabins feel grown from the hills rather than dropped onto them. Everything screamed ‘intentional’ and ‘whimsical’ - in the best way.

Some accommodations lean into stone, shaped from pica piedra, their exteriors giving off slightly prehistoric, almost Flintstones-like vibes, grounding and playful all at once. Between rolling green hills and rice pastures, the architecture feels inventive without ever feeling out of place.

Tucked deeper into the greenery is a single, hobbit-like unit, rounded and earth-hugging, finished in crudo textures and fragrant cedar pine. The fresh, spicy scent lingers the moment you step inside, the kind that quiets the nervous system and makes people want to stay in bed a little longer.

Perched at an altitude of over 1,700 feet in the Central Mountain Range, I imagined I could be in the woods back home in New York. In the Dominican Republic’s coastal areas, there’s often no respite from the intensity of the Caribbean sun. Like many Americans, I’ve been guilty of associating the islands with beach vibes alone. Jarabacoa challenged that assumption completely. Elevated, cool, and endlessly green, this part of the Dominican Republic tells a quieter story, one rooted in mountains instead of waves, where the Caribbean reveals a different kind of magic.

I stayed in Oslo, a gorgeous cabin that left me with a quiet sense of surprise. As I explored the rest of the property, thoughtful innovation appeared everywhere, including a pine tree growing straight through the center of my family’s bathroom in the Bohecio unit. That space also includes its own separate downstairs living area.

Among the accommodations, a strikingly tall, treehouse-style structure rises above the landscape, with views stretching toward Dominican cities like San Francisco de Macorís, Moca, and Santiago. An Amsterdam unit, complete with some of the most striking views on the property, features a telescope, a full outdoor patio with a grill and pool, and can accommodate up to ten guests. Other units offer different features like ovens, desks, and private lap pools, allowing guests to shape their stay around rest, connection, or productivity.

I enjoyed burgers with my family at night at their onsite restaurant, al fresco. We gawked at a giant frog and giggled and even brainstormed a bit. We were at ease, restoration was deeply in progress, and we felt more present than ever. I felt regulated, absorbed as much sweet air as possible to expand my lungs, and smirked at the moon. It was all right on time. Two nights in, waking up to canopies of green and the smell of fresh wood, I had almost forgotten I was in the Caribbean. 

I inhaled even deeper at the on-property sauna after a gentle massage. My body has always felt good in the Dominican Republic, having visited family here my whole life. But fewer times had I felt as grounded as I did here sleeping under the stars, releasing everything that begged to be released through every pore as the steam and water enveloped me in a suffocating but inviting sweaty smoke. I was so glad I’d decided to spend some more time this trip exploring the mountains instead of the beaches. I now have a new go-to hidden gem of an  escape haven. A place to reconnect to yourself, raw earth, those you love, let go, and be inspired. A place to float, sit still, write a novel, heal, and bask.