My journey began with a first-class train ride.
Experiencing summer in the Swiss Alps was a refreshing change from my usual winter visits for the ski season. My curiosity to see the Alps sans snow led me to Inghams Walking Holidays, offering the perfect chance to explore this stunning region during the warmer months. The journey began with a first-class train ride, followed by a connection to Zermatt via Visp. This four-hour journey was filled with delightful interactions with my fellow travelers.
We had such fun that I forgot about the time until the announcement came that we had arrived at Zermatt station shortly past 8.30pm. Our rumbling stomachs led us to Grizzly's a welcoming bar with hearty food and great ales. The atmosphere was fantastic, and the pub even had a dog called Charlie - my kind of place.
Our home for the next few days was to be the NationaL Zermatt , a classic hotel in the heart of Zermatt with 54 rooms and suites with a balcony or terrace. The spacious rooms are comfortable and warm and have endless supplies of tea, coffee, apples and water in the rooms. It is the perfect base for an alpine adventure right in the heart of the town. It has has a bar, restaurant serving al a carte food and a help-yourself breakfast. And after a long day of exploring an inviting spa and swimming pool to soak away any aches and pains.
After a good nights sleep in the comfy beds, I rose in the early morning light, and out of my window saw the mystical peak. Its aura is magnetizing and its iconic shape is visible from the town, which itself is wonderfully picturesque. There is a clear river running through it and hills encircling it with pretty alpine cabins and hotels line the mountains.
As you walk along, you’ll see horse-drawn carriages used by the top hotels and small electric vehicles that replace motor vehicles in this carless town. We walked towards the cable car clutching our ski lift passes. This was a special day; we were invited to be among the very first passengers on the long-awaited 3S Matterhorn Alpine Crossing between Zermatt and Cervinia. This means you can have breakfast in Switzerland and lunch in Italy.
This is the highest altitude border in the Alps and the crossing comprises six cable car connections connecting the two villages. Now with the final connections in place, travelling between the resorts can be done in just under two hours. The Matterhorn is the most photographed mountain in the world and many images of it are from the Zermatt side. The iconic peak represents a jagged tooth and the climb is said to be one of the most difficult to conquer. It was first scaled by Edward Whymper in 1865 and many went on to emulate his achievement. The first woman to climb the peak was Lucy Walker, a mere six years later. Nowadays, about 3,000 climbers reach the top each year.
The Matterhorn itself is known locally as the shy lady because she is often concealed behind a cloud. Until now, many have only known the Zermatt side but now it is possible to cross from one side to the other thanks to a new chairlift system. Traveling with two other women, an explorer and a fellow journalist, we were excited to be among the first to cross the mountains, albeit mechanically, to Italy.
The first stage of the adventure would take us up Trockner Steg at 2,939, which opened in 2018. From here the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing begins at the Glacier Paradise. This is known as the Klein Matterhorn station (The Glacier Paradise). How funny to think we were at similar heights as those very first mountaineers. As we got closer to the enigmatic peak, the scenery became even more beautiful. We were in the land of the 4,000m peaks. But this was only the beginning of a much greater vision to connect Zermatt with Cervinia, in the great Matterhorn Alpine crossing, with the iconic peak always in sight.
The entire project has taken five years and 140 million CHF to complete, and the second phase completing the alpine crossing opened on July 1, linking the exclusive resort of Zermatt with Cervinia. The Testa Grigia region in Italy boasts year-round skiing on the glacier and it is hoped that the opening of the new crossing will help bring more visitors to the region and strengthen Zermatt's position as Europe’s top alpine destination.
The trip was part of a wider itinerary planned by the Zermatt Tourist Board and Inghams Walking Holidays. There are great hopes that the new crossing will transform holidays to the region during the summer months and appeal to non-skiers as well as skiers alike. The panoramic view of the majestic Matterhorn is breathtaking and there are activities around all nine cable car stations such as snow tubing, snow experiences, a beginner ski area, a glacier palace, a cinema lounge, and an info cube.
Back in 1835., Edward Whymper had to use his own steam to get up the mountain and ropes to haul himself and the team up, enduring harsh conditions at altitude with no creature comforts. Now with the help of technology and smart engineering, one can soar over the Matterhorn in a glittering new cable car. At 3,458m, you can experience the Alps' highest alpine border, with one foot in Switzerland and the other in Italy.
The cable cars are split between Matterhorn Glacier Ride 1, which can ferry 2,000 passengers per hour, and Matterhorn Glacier Ride 2 which can carry 1,300. The Glacier Crystal Ride, which is sponsored by Swarovski, offers a stunning view of the enchanting landscape. Four of the 25 cabins are dedicated to the Crystal experience on the first connection and two rides out of 10 for the second leg. The treacherous snow, rock, and ice of the Glacier paradise can be viewed below but today you are in complete luxury with heated seats.
At this vantage point, you can admire the iconic Matterhorn Peak in the Monta Rosa massif, which dominates the landscape. It is a magical scene and the beauty of it is it is aimed at non-skiers, just as much as those who like to glide down the mountains. It has opened in time for the summer season, which will attract hikers who are interested in seeing the Matterhorn from the Italian side. The connecting cable car takes you to Cime Bianche Laghi, then further down the valley to Plas Maison, and finally into the green foothills of Breuil Cervinia. In 2024 there will be a luggage transfer, meaningyou can split your time between the two destinations.
Once you leave the cable car it's clear you've arrived in Italy as everything becomes passionate from the language in the shops, to the food, which is cooked with love and Italian flair. Wander through the little town and pick up some supplies. Everything is so much cheaper than Zermatt and the souvenir shops all sell trinkets with the Italian view of the mountains. Make sure you buy some limoncello and local grappa to take home in your suitcase. Known as Breuil Cervinia, the village is in the heart of the Vallee d'Aosta, at an altitude of 2,050m above sea level. In the summer this is an adventurers' paradise with unlimited bike trails and the Cervinio bike park as well as horse riding opportunities and an 18-hole golf course.
Walk through the ski village and round the corner, facing the mountains to a wonderful restaurant called Ristorante Bar de Mario run by Mary Grace and her husband Mario. Mary's father Jean Birch was the first Italian to climb the North face of the Matterhorn in 1961 with Piero Navra and Peirino Pession. On the menu is local venison pasta washed down with Valle d'Aoste Pino Gris and an affogato to follow with a limoncello.
Then it was time to return via the snowy kingdom to Zermatt. It was a wonderful day out and a fantastic way to discover a new country, as this was my first time in Italy. Back in Zermatt, it was time to explore our home base for the next few days. Where better to understand the history of mountaineering than the Zermatt Museum which has artefacts including the broken piece of rope that Edward Whymper and his team used for that first ascent?
Next door is the grand dame of Zermatt, the Grand Hotel Zermatahof, the Ritz of the Alps, dating to 1879. A doorman greets you and takes your coat as you check in, safe in the knowledge you are joining royalty and celebrities who have trodden the boards before you. There are 77 rooms all designed to the highest standards and the public spaces are fabulous. The Stars Bar is an art deco space that includes live entertainment by a wonderful pianist and singer. As the champagne corks pop, you feel like a VIP as you sit back and enjoy the moment in this elegant bar. This old-world charm and elegance sum up what Zermatt is all about.
Just opposite is the Monta Rosa Hotel, the oldest establishment of its kind in Zermatt, established in the Belle Epoque era of 1839 and boasts one of the oldest ballrooms in the Alps. This was the very hotel that Wymper stayed in when he arrived to conquer the Matterhorn. Edward’s Bar has been named after him and is an elegant place to have a nightcap. Downstairs, a mini statue pays tribute to him, and upstairs is a gallery of photographs of the very first explorers who joined him on his famous ascent which made the history books.
Later, enjoy a meal at one of the many elegant eateries on the Bahnhofstrasse. For one of the best schnitzels in town visit Theodors Stuba. It also does great vegetarian food and combines history with great gastronomy and a hearty meal, reminiscent of its Swiss/German heritage.
If you want to continue drinking then head to Harry's Ski Bar, a local institution in the town, and wall-to-wall with skiers during peak season. This is a classy resort, so don't expect much nightlife after 10pm. But if you do wish to have a drink later into the evening, Brown Cow, part of the Post Hotel group which operates adult nightclubs and bars, is a good pitstop. And stop for a bite to eat at Zermatt Kitchen which serves delicious rustic food such as leek and potato rosti smothered in local raclette.
The final day involved hiking in the foothills with Inghams Walking Holidays. Led by a guide, we took the cable car up to Furi and walked up to the suspension bridge and then across the peaks and down the valley to the hamlet of Blatten where you'll see traditional chalets and storehouses.
Hiking in the Alps in the summertime is glorious and you'll see blooms of wildflowers and feel the cool alpine air against your skin as the sun beats down on your skin. Hiking is great for wellness and this three-hour circuit takes in delicious views. We saw a fox and heard the whistling of the marmots. We also met dogs on their daily walk, including Charlie from the pub. Later, we saw the native, black-necked goats making their way back up the mountain. As we strode down through the town, we were treated to a troupe in traditional dress blowing an Alp Horn.
Zermatt is an exclusive resort that rises above the rest in terms of class. It has a historic heart full of romantic traditional wooden chalets. Stroll down the main street and browse the exclusive shops and restaurants. Overall, it is a traditional resort with the best views of the Matterhorn which has fascinated great explorers since the 19th century and now with the new alpine pass looks forward to inspiring the next generation.
Book tickets for the Matterhorn Alpine crossing online, at the Zermatt tourist office. The full route from Zermatt to Testa Grigia to Cervinia begins at 120 CHF one-way and 240 CHF return.
Find out more at https://www.inghams.co.uk/walking-holidays
7 nights half board at Hotel National, Zermatt. Flying 14th September 2024 from London Gatwick from £1,689 per person. Based on 2 adults sharing.