Tucked into the Gingerland Hills, it is a sanctuary for those who value peace and quiet
There’s a saying in Nevis, ‘rush slowly’, and at Golden Rock Inn, on this Caribbean Island you can experience the true meaning of that maxim. Escape the hustle and bustle at this hillside oasis where it’s just you, nature and the friendly Nevisian staff. Golden Rock Inn is one of those quintessential hotels, where time ceases to exist. Tucked into the Gingerland Hills, it is a sanctuary for those who value peace and quiet. One can lose themselves and all track of their usual busy schedule in the land known as the Queen of the Caribbean.
Golden Rock Inn dates to 1801, it is a former sugar plantation which was converted into a hotel in 1958 by Pam Barry whose great-great-great-great-grandfather bought the property back in 1801. She ran it with two other owners before selling it to New York artists Helen and Brice Marden who have put their own unique stamp on the property treating it like a canvas for their creativity.
Ivo Richli is the hotel manager of this hotel which has 40-odd staff, many of whom have been with the property for over a decade, and some for up to 40 years. They know the hotel’s history inside and out. The main market is the US which is a testament to its American ownership and proximity to the States.
For Brits, getting there is an adventure, after a 10-hour flight via Antigua, take a taxi from Robert Bradshaw airport to Reggae, Reggae Beach where a speedboat awaits to whisk your over to the island of Nevis. A rainbow arches over the verdant isle which is dominated by Nevis Peak. The journey takes six minutes which is just about time for a quick Carib beer. Once you land on Oualie beach another taxi awaits to take you to Golden Rock Inn.
Follow the main island road that wraps around the 36 square meter island past colourful houses. Then after about 20 minutes take a turn down a winding narrow drive through a grove of mango and banana trees, where verdant green monkeys play and you enter the grounds of Golden Rock Inn.
This boutique hotel has 11 bedrooms all hidden by palm trees and botanical plants. Eight hillside rooms are a riot of color, yet they are concealed among tropical foliage for privacy, while the honeymoon suite is housed in the former sugar mill which makes a statement as it rises up out of the jungle like something out of a fairytale, camouflaged with banana leaf and vines. The landscape artist Raymond Jungles is the maestro behind the wild gardens at modern-day Golden Rock. He had a little help and instructions from the current owners Helen and Brice Marden. These gardens are a haven for wildlife. Indeed, nature engulfs the senses from the moment you arrive at this very special property, and you are welcomed into the inn with a spicy rum punch.
The first rains of the season bring a welcome relief for the plants and bring with it a musty smell called petrichor. My home for the trip was the charming Coconut Walk cottage and after unpacking I sat on the patio lounger cradling my rum cocktail and watched the sunset, casting the skies pink and purple.
As the skies darkened the birdsong gave way to the sounds of the creatures of the night. The birds swoop into the trees to roost, bats fly overhead and nocturnal tree frogs and crickets make melodic music, competing with the owls as they lie concealed in their jungle canopy and their mesmerizing chorus. This seducing soundtrack relaxes the senses and continues throughout the night, until the morning. Watching a little lizard slither past, and a tiny gecko climb up the trellis, I was captivated by his slow and deliberate movements. I felt my body relax and all the tension of the last few months melt away. This is better than any spa, this is slow travel at its very best. After a busy day travelling and the soothing coos and buzz of the creatures of the night, I slept soundly.
The next morning I rose at 5am and wandered to the patio to sit in quiet contemplation by the cool spring-fed pools where coy carp swim. This patio is a calm and serene place to relax with a cool drink and watch the red dragonfly’s flit and dance above the lily pads. A great place to sit is under the pavilion designed by Edward Tuttle, known for his work on the Aman resort looking back at the stylish resort with the striking refinery and Nevis Peak behind her.
The Rocks restaurant and all the hotel’s public buildings are crafted out of grey volcanic rock with entrances framed by vivid red shutters. The al fresco dining area is surrounded by tall pillars and a red umbrella canopy to shade from the hot Caribbean sun. This is a place where people come to relax and sample the delicious fayre lovingly prepared by head chef James Eaton and his team of cooks.
Take a seat on the patio and indulge yourself with the delicious breakfasts which Golden Rock Inn is legendary for. The menu caters for all tastes, with delicious, syrupy Belgian waffles for those with a sweet tooth or eggs benedict local style where ham is swapped for a local fish called wahoo. If your feeling decadent you can try the lobster hash, which is incredibly flavorsome and filling. The birds swoop down from the trees tamed by the guests that feed them and they will happily eat out of your hands. The mountain doves coo and the mango birds sing to you as you eat your breakfast.
Lunch and dinner are popular with the restaurant on average providing sixty covers per sitting. The lobster sandwich is the best-seller, made with soft crustless bread and succulent pieces of fleshy lobster in a creamy sauce. Alternatively, the rum and lime-flavored shrimps are ideal for a lighter bite.
On a hot day take a popsicle from the cart and cool down by the unchlorinated freshwater pool, framed by tall trees. One can choose a sun lounger in the full beam of the sun, dipping in and out of the pool or to perch under the shady treelined canopy reading a magazine from the rack. The bar makes delicious pina coladas which you can enjoy by the poolside.
Inside the rooms, you’ll find mosquito spray and guards to ward away the little critters. There’s also a beach bag filled with towels and homemade cookies baked by Analise. There’s a large wardrobe and a safe and a slow boiling silent kettle and cups for making a brew. There’s also a ceiling fan and a tall free-standing fan, to keep the room cool. With all these creature comforts, one needn’t leave the resort.
There are plenty of creative corners to retreat to and make art, music or write. The inn was intended to be a space where creatives and writers could gather, and indeed it is owned by two renowned artists Brice and Helen Marden from New York. The couple visit as often as they can and like to spend time in their on-site art studio. They and creatives have plenty of muses in the natural landscape which is almost like an oil painting. The owners have put their own creative mark on the resort, treating it as a canvas, with colorful chairs on the patio and a stylish snug, which displays their modernist approach to art with vivid colors and tables which resemble paint pots. There are books about travel and art and board games. The small bar is well stocked with various rums and spirits and all the staff are friendly and willing to chat to guests. The inn is very welcoming and has large wide open doors which invite the inside in, and the sounds of nature.
However, after a few days of being cut off from the outside world, you may crave some company and to engage with the wider island vibe. Then an island taxi is available to transport to you Pinneys Beach where you can find Sunshine’s Bar and Grill. This is a must visit to try an infamous killer bee rum punch and meet Sunshine, himself who is a local legend. He began selling beers and chicken and now also provides a potent concoction made up of island rum, bitters and a secret ingredient only he knows. This makes his bar one of the most popular on the island. There’s a saying that one killer bee is enough, maybe two, but to have any more you’ll be in trouble.
Overall Nevis is a special place which offers an escape from the everyday, beyond the traditional beach break. Stay at Golden Rock Inn for a slow travel experience but you can also visit The Four Seasons, Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, The Hermitage and Montpelier Plantation & Beach for an alternative view. Nevis captures your heart and makes you feel alive, there is something so very
The capital of Nevis is Charlestown and this is the home of The Alexander Hamilton Museum which is the birthplace of the man who inspired the current West End Musical. Alexander Hamilton was a Nevis-born American military officer, statesman, and Founding Father who served as the first Secretary of the Treasury from 1789 to 1795 during George Washington's presidency. Get up close with Nevis history at the heritage centre and see the very first homes where the Carib Indians and native Nevisians used to live in. Learn about the past rum and sugar industry by visiting The New River estate. Here the great house, cistern and sugar works including the tower offer a glimpse into the operation of a large-scale sugar plantation. Nevis produces delicious fruit including 44 varieties of mango and there’s a festival dedicated to it in July. The best place to pick them is in Cades Orchard, where you can also harvest dragon fruit, star apples and many more.
Passions is also a place where you can get good authentic food from Nevis, it is a colourful café by the roadside and is run by Caren. Her traditional dishes are cooked to absolute perfection from the coconut shrimp as a starter, followed by grouper with a creole sauce. Enjoy this Caribbean cuisine in colourful surroundings with the sounds of nature all around you from clucking chickens to the heehaw of a donkey.
Overall Nevis is a special place which offers an escape from the everyday, beyond the traditional beach break. Stay at Golden Rock Inn for a slow travel experience but you can also visit The Four Seasons, Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, The Hermitage and Montpelier Plantation & Beach for an alternative view. Nevis captures your heart and makes you feel alive, there is something so very special about Nevis, the Queen of the Caribbean and even a month after returning to Blighty I long to visit again. I took a sticker home which tells me to rush slowly, lest I forget and go back to my frantic pace. Once you rush slowly, you begin to live again.